Celine: fashion spring 2012

Since its debut two years ago at Celine, Phoebe Philo legions of fans have been accustomed to all things lean and efficient, be it leather handbags Classic plain box that launched so many imitators or panty line of racing-car-inspired Fall collection. But for Spring, Philo thinks about the form. "It's just very statue, very three-dimensional," he said afterward. "We emphasize the bits that feel strong to accentuate, try to make some new proportions."


You can calculate Philo among the growing number of designers who see fifties and sixties silhouette couture for inspiration, as evidenced by, arms full round of army jacket, her blouse Watteau back, hips circling peplums. You can also put himself on the short list of those who make the look modern and new era. Chalk that up to a luxury sensibility spartan collection: no fingerprints, no appliques, no need to save for a few extra bags and envelopes leather ankle-strap platform pumps that women will find indispensable is the next spring (so much for the theory that the platform is more ).

Basque said the designer to peplums the focal point of the event. Sometimes he used a wide belt to create that effect; other times only partially burning a piece of cloth attached to a pair of pants at the hips. That might attract the wrong kind of attention, but little leather A-line tees and collared cotton shirt with graceful folds on the back is a different story. And Philo did not keep playing it for half the proportion of the top. Pants this season is as bloated and liquids such as last season which is linear.

It is an ambitious new message from a designer who makes virtue mode "diminished". Whether or not anything to do with the rumors he had considered to replace Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton if and when he left Dior, we have to wait and see. Nicole Phelps